Equipment Firms Should Confirm Economical Promises

I don't have much to say about this other than it's about time. I know most people pay little attention to the energy label when purchasing a new appliance because they are making their selection based on how it looks and what it does. But if you are interested in the energy conservation side of things and want to make an educated decision, the existing tags can be rather misleading and in some cases outright false. My reasoning for saying such things isn't because the manufacturers are trying to scam anyone, but it has more to do with what isn't being said. Many new appliances are very energy efficient when being used in a specific way, such as a dishwasher that gives the option of turning off the heated dry. That is great, but most people don't like to dry off their dishes as they empty the dishwasher. So does the energy savings still hold true if the customer chooses to use the heated dry feature? Or what happens when the energy usage sample is taken in a controlled condition with such things as a refrigerators ice maker turned off? The ice maker itself isn't a big energy hog, but making ice every hour for years can add up and I am not always sure if that information makes it onto these labels. All I can say is I hope something good comes out of this government intervention for the benefit of the consumer. But still, it is important to be educated about what you are buying and ask the right questions. - Me

Article -
Those yellow labels on appliances that declare how much power they'll use and show you how much you'll save because of their energy efficiency may not be as truthful as you think.

Because of that doubt, the U.S. Department of Energy said last week it's giving appliance makers 30 days to provide more accurate information on their products' energy use. And it promised to take a tougher stance to enforce energy-efficiency standards.


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BSH Devices Corp. Stretches Call To Mind Associated With Thermador® Built-In Ranges As A Result Of Fire Risk Brands: Cooking, Recaptures, Thermador

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following products. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of Product: Thermador® Built-In Ovens

Units: About 37,000 (42,000 built-in ovens were previously recalled in June 2007)

Manufacturer: BSH Home Appliances Corp., of Huntington Beach, Calif.

Hazard: The ovens can have gaps in the insulation where overheating can occur and when used in the self-cleaning mode it can cause nearby cabinets to catch fire. This poses a fire hazard to consumers.

Incidents/Injuries: BSH Home Appliances has received three additional reports of incidents, including two that resulted in fires that damaged surrounding cabinets. No injuries have been reported.

Description: The recall involves Thermador Brand built-in double ovens with model numbers C272B, C302B, SEC272, SEC302, SECD272 and SECD302 and serial numbers between FD8403 through FD8701. Model and serial numbers are located on the underside of the control panel.

Sold at: Appliance and specialty stores nationwide from June 2004 through July 2007 for between $3,000 and $4,400.

Manufactured in: United States

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the oven’s self-cleaning mode and contact the firm to schedule an inspection and free repair, if necessary.
Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Thermador at (800) 701-5230 24 hours/day, 7 days/week, or visit the firm’s Web site at www.thermador.com

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Consumers can obtain recall and general safety information by logging on to CPSC's Web site at www.cpsc.gov.

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Frigidaire Dishwasher Leaky

Model #PLD4555RFC0, this dishwasher had been working so the customer thought nothing of starting a load of dishes before running off to work for the day. But when they arrived home to find standing water on the floor as a result of a waterfall from the front of the dishwasher, it didn't take much coaxing to figure out something was wrong. They were able to clean up the mess, but the water kept coming until they finally shut it off at the source. A technician had been called to have a look, but was unable to recreate the conditions that apparently had started this torrent. But when returning home the next day to the same wet floor, there was no denying, something was wrong.

Water pouring from the front of our dishwashers is nothing any of us wants to see, and although leaks can and do occur, it's the intermittent ones that cause us the most problems. Based on the customers description, I was wondering how any tech could miss something that let loose so much water, but after having a look myself, it appeared this was not going to be any ordinary dishwasher leak.

I started as I normally do, looking for the places water has been, which is usually easy to see since it disturbs any dust in the area and leaves a thin film of detergent. But water seemed to have been all over the place, and most of the trails had been wiped clean by the customer in an attempt to dry things out. Starting a wash cycle didn't show any signs of a leak as it washed, drained, and continued on without as much as a drop from anywhere around the dishwasher. I was sure the customer was not making this up, but I usually don't like replacing parts, just because and hope the problem get resolved. So instead, I kept at it hoping some clue as to the reason for the leak would show itself.

Figuring I would be here awhile, I stared a normal wash cycle to let the machine do its thing while I sat back and watched. This can be a rather boring process, but sometimes we need to do some real life testing to get some problems to show. After what seemed like hours of dishwasher filling, washing and draining, the first sign of water appeared right out the front, much like the customer described. After looking inside the tub, it was obvious by the position of the float that there was entirely to much water inside.




Excess water can come from two sources, the fill valve overfilling, or water not draining and remaining in the tub. Because most dishwashers fill and drain based on time, they really do not know how much water is in the tub at any point in the wash cycles. Cancelling the test showed the water draining properly, and there was no back flow into the sump, which left the valve as a possible problem. I was going to begin another test so I could keep an eye on the valve, when my eye caught water trickling from the inlet opening. As I watched it, the flow continued and after several minuets, there was enough to fill the bottom of the sump. Looks like this was the clue I had been waiting for.

With power off to the valve, water continued to flow, which is a sure indication that something is preventing the valve from sealing shut. The solution to this problem is to replace the fill valve with a new one. Once all the necessary plumbing was completed, I started another test cycle, but this time, the water shut off as expected. With a new valve in place, I was confident this obscure problem had been resolved one and for all.

This blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Pittsburgh. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call 800-469-4663 or email info@ApplianceRepairPittsburghPA.net. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Frigidaire Gallery 30" Double Electric Wall Oven

Features

Quick Preheat

Preheat in less than 6 minutes.¹
True Convection

Multi-rack baking is faster and more even with True Convection.
Express-Select® Controls

Easily set cooking temperature or choose one-touch cooking options.
One-Touch Options

Our ovens feature easy-to-use one touch buttons so you can cook pizza or chicken nuggets – or even add a minute to the timer – with the touch of a button.
Pizza Button

Easily bake perfect pizza with the touch of a button.
SpaceWise® Half Rack

Flexible rack system that adjusts to cook multiple dishes at once. Remove the half rack and you’ll have extra height for tall dishes. Read More
One-Touch Keep Warm Setting

Just one touch of a button keeps food warm until everything — and everyone — is ready.

Real Stainless Steel
Real stainless steel with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges so it's easy to clean.

Effortless™ Convection
Takes the guesswork out of convection cooking - our oven does the converting for you.
Even Baking Technology

Our latest technology ensures even baking every time.
One-Touch Self Clean

Start the self-cleaning cycle with just the touch of a button.
Delay Start
Set your oven to begin cooking on your schedule. It can be programmed from one to 24 hours.

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Modifying Mid-Air Filtration System With Your Compactor

• It is recommended that you use either the charcoal air filter or the air freshener in the filter compartment. The solid air freshener system is an alternative to the air filter and is designed to control odors that might develop in the trash.

To change the air filter or air freshener:

• Insert fingertips into the air filter cover and pull until the side tabs release. Then, lift the cover to release the bottom tabs.

• Remove the air filter by pulling the top edge of the filter. The filter should pull out easily. Throw away used filter. OR Remove the air freshener by simply lifting it out of the filter compartment. Throw away used freshener.

• To replace the air filter, push the replacement filter into place. OR To replace the air freshener, place the replacement in the filter compartment.

• Insert the bottom tabs of the air filter cover and push in until the side tabs snap into place.

This blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Phoenix. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call 800-469-4663 or email info@ApplianceRepairPhoenixAZ.net. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Kenmore Dryer Drum Unfastened

Model #41779052991 this smaller gas dryer, made by Frigidaire by the way, seemed to be working fine, but while I was out doing some work on the washer, the customer asked if I could have a look and make sure everything was alright. With no specific complaint, I set out to do a thorough cleaning of the dryers interior and venting system when I came upon a damaged upper drum felt. After talking with the customer, it seems they had been having some problems, specifically with marks getting left on white close. But more about that later.

With the top and front panels removed, I was able to get a good look at the dryers interior components and the layer of lint sitting on just about all of it. Lint not only gets trapped by the dryers lint screen, but will also get past it or around the drum seal and lays on everything like new fallen snow. Because dryers move large amounts of air, any dust that is floating around the laundry room will also find its way into the dryer cabinet. It's a good idea to have your dryer served periodically along with the venting to ensure optimum performance. But I digress.

I noticed the upper drum seal only had one of its original three drum glides attached and the seal itself had seen better days. Once the drum was removed and I began cleaning, I found the remains of the other two glides sitting down on the bottom of the cabinet. The fact the glides were missing and the seal was well worn is not in itself reason to start replacing parts. There was no evidence of noise or physical damage to the dryer so I presented the options to the customer. Concerned most with potential problems, we discussed the possible failures such as noise during operation, damage to the front lip of the drum due to no glides, and the possibility of clothes becoming stuck leaving what appears to be dark lines on the clothes.

This is when the customer piped up and said she had been seeing these marks for some time now and was frustrated because she couldn't find their source. I explained as the upper seal wears down, the drum will sit lower in the front leaving a gap between the bottom seal and the drum lip. In the case of this dryer, I was able to get a finger in between the seal and the drum. Clothes will get stuck in at the bottom and then make a quick trip around the drum stuck in between the drum and the seals.


I assured her a new upper seal would resolve the issue and even prolong the use of her dryer. These seals are glued in place, with a provided high temperature adhesive, and take a few minutes to ensure they will remain in place. It's best to replace the seal them move onto other tasks as the glue drys. Once back together, the gap at the bottom of the drum was missing due to the new upper seal and the clothes should no longer come out with their mysterious markings.


This blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Oklahoma City. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call 800-469-4663 or email info@ApplianceRepairOklahomaCityOK.com. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Frigidaire Dish-washer Leaking

Model #PLD2855RFC1, this dishwasher started leaking small amounts of water while in use. The customer noted the problem was anywhere from no water to enough that a towel was needed to clean up the mess but really wanted to have it repaired to save the hardwood floors.



Unlike many commercial dishwashers, household dishwashers do not seal shut when the door is closed, but use seals and gaskets at appropriate locations to keep the water inside the tub. Many people will notice the side seals that are used to keep the water from leaking out the side, but most are not aware of the seal or seals at the bottom of the door. These seals, because they are mounted to the door, need to be flexible enough to bend when the door is opened, but rigid enough to hold back the water surge from the wash pump. If either of the door seals were to begin leaking, the common symptom noticed would be water dripping from the bottom corners of the door panel. Figuring which of the two seals is leaking is just a matter of observation.

I removed the outer door panel to have a better look at the bottom seal during a wash cycle and noticed the water surge that was slipping past the seal. Sometimes these seals can be adjusted up or down to change how they contact the tub, but if that doesn't work, then it's time to change the seal.

I installed the new style bottom seal into this unit which no longer uses the additional wings on the ends, but rather uses a new let of seals that fit into the corners. Once I was done, the dishes could be washed without worrying about water on the floor.

This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Miami Beach. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (786)-375-6350 or email info@ApplianceRepairMiamiBeach.com. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Testing Flip-up Ice Producers

Ice maker components can easily be tested by gaining access to the module on the front of the unit. There you will find several holes that lead to electrical test points on the module. Using a multi-meter, voltage and resistance checks can be conducted at these test points. Using an insulated (14 gauge) jumper wire will allow component operation testing. Compare your findings to the readings below to help with unit diagnosis. These ice maker modules are found on most Whirlpool and Maytag manufactured products along with a few others. If the module looks like the one pictured, these checks will work for you.



Before conducting these tests, make sure the ice maker is plugged into the refrigerator, the shut-off arm is down, and the freezer is below 15 F. Also make sure the water connection is turned on, and that supply tube to the ice maker is not frozen.

• Verify voltage to the ice maker by measuring between test points L & N on the module. Line voltage of approximately 120 volts AC should be expected. If voltage is not present, verify the ice maker is plugged into the connector and the shut off arm is down. Some models require the door switch to be in the closed position to power the ice maker. If you still don’t have voltage to the ice maker, check the thermal fuse on the black wire for an open circuit.



• Check the thermostat by measuring between test points T & H on the module. If the bi metal thermostat is open, approximately 120 VAC will be measured. If it is closed, 0VAC will be measured. If the bi metal reads open inside a cold freezer, then the thermostat has failed and needs to be replaced.



• A jumper wire inserted between test points T & H will bypass the bi metal thermostat and force a harvest cycle. If the motor does not run with the jumper in place, replace the module assembly. Leave the jumper wire in for the first half a revolution to verify the mold heater is working. Removing the jumper during the last half a revolution will allow the water fill valve to actuate. Failure of the mold heater to operate would indicate it needs to be replaced. An open mold heater will also prevent the water valve from operating.




• A jumper wire inserted between test points L & V will actuate the water fill valve (have towels handy). If the fill valve fails to operate, verify the wiring to the valve by measuring voltage at the valve connectors. Voltage present at the fill valve but no operation, indicates a bad valve. If there is no voltage present, verify your wiring back to the ice maker module.

These are the basic tests to help diagnose a failed ice maker component. By following these steps, you should be able to locate and correct your problem.

This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Miami Beach. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (786)-375-6350 or email info@ApplianceRepairMiamiBeach.com. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Refrigerators Bottom - Freezer

GE® Bottom-Freezer Refrigerators
From top to bottom, the GE® bottom-freezer refrigerator offers you simple elegance and smart features. Our stylish options, including French door bottom-freezer refrigerators, transform any kitchen, while our convenient features meet the demands of your busy lifestyle.

Slide-out freezer drawers provide ample storage and keep items organized and easily within reach.

An external dispenser offers cubed/crushed ice and filtered water on demand.
The ClimateKeeper™ system with dual evaporators provides better food preservation by chilling the freezer and fresh food compartments independently.
And, full-width shelves are perfect for party trays and larger items.


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Do you need a Single Wall Structure Oven or Possibly a Twice Wall Cooker?

SINGLE WALL OVENS
Frigidaire Single Wall Ovens come in three widths: 24", 27", and 30". Frigidaire Single Wall Ovens also come in two fuel types: gas and electric. They can be installed into the wall, under countertops or under cooktops.

DOUBLE WALL OVENS
Double Wall Ovens feature two full-sized ovens. If you bake, roast, and entertain frequently, a Double Wall Oven may be the best fit for your family. The Double Wall Oven lets you prepare multiple dishes in the oven at the same time. Frigidaire offers Double Wall Ovens in two widths, 27" and 30", and two fuel types, gas and electric.


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Upgrading? Below Are A Few Things To Consider:

If you are remodeling your kitchen, built-in appliances allow you more flexibility to position appliances where they best suit your needs. You will also have more appliance options, such as cooktops that are dropped into counters or islands, and wall ovens and warmer drawers that are built into the walls or cabinets.

In planning your kitchen, a good guideline to follow is a “V”-type, or three-point pattern of appliance placement. This will make it easier to move between the refrigerator and the cooking and cleaning areas of your kitchen.

This blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Kansas City. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (816)-841-3945 or email info@ApplianceRepairKansasCityMO.com. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems

Do You Need a Gasoline Cooktop, Electrical Cooktop or perhaps Induction Cross Cooktop?

GAS COOKTOPS
Gas cooktops run on natural gas or liquid propane. If your home is connected to a gas line or runs on liquid propane (LP), you have the option of installing a gas cooktop. Or, if you simply prefer cooking with gas and plan to hook LP to your cooktop, you can choose a gas cooktop for your kitchen. Frigidaire® gas cooktops come in three widths: 26" gas cooktops, 30" gas cooktops and 36" gas cooktops.

ELECTRIC COOKTOPS
Electric cooktops come with either traditional electric coil burners or with a smooth ceramic glass cooktop surface.

Traditional Electric Cooktop: The traditional electric cooktop has coiled burners with burner pits. The coils can be pulled and pits lifted for cleaning.
Ceramic Glass Electric Cooktop: Newer electric cooktops feature smooth ceramic glass cooking surfaces. These ceramic glass electric cooktops feature a clean cooking surface. Four cooking elements power the cooking surface, but unlike traditional electric coil cooktops, ceramic glass cooktops can be cleaned simply by wiping down the cooktop surface.
Choosing a type of electric cooktop is largely a matter of preference. However, if you plan on doing lots of cooking, particularly with sauces, the ceramic glass cooktop is easier to clean.

Frigidaire offers traditional electric cooktops and ceramic glass electric cooktops in three widths: 30" electric cooktops, 32" electric cooktops and 36" electric cooktops.

INDUCTION HYBRID COOKTOP
Induction elements work by heating the cookware itself, not the cooktop. Because the heat is generated in the pot or pan, food can cook faster. This is called "rapid heat", a feature of induction elements which makes induction cooking much more energy efficient.

Induction cooktops heat differently than traditional gas or electric cooktops. Induction cooktops generate heat in the cookware itself, not the cooktop. This leaves the induction cooktop surface cooler than traditional cooktops once the heat is turned off.

Frigidaire induction hybrid cooktops are versatile, with both induction and electric elements. They come in two widths: 30" Induction Hybrid Cooktops and 36" Induction Hybrid Cooktops.

This blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Kansas City . Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (816)-841-3945 or email info@ApplianceRepairKansasCityMO.com. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Bosch Washer Moldy Door Seal

Model #WFMC3200UC, this front load washer was working just fine for the customer, but over the preceding months, a colony of mold spores seemed to make the bottom portion of the door seal their new home. The customer tried cleaning the seal with bleach and other household cleaning products which seemed to work for the short term, but within a few days, the black spots began to reappear. After a call to the manufacturer and being told the seal needed to be replaced, I was given a call to facilitate that part change.

A little mold on the door seals, or bellows as we techs call them, is about as common as dust bunnies behind the dryer, and although they don't really cause a problem with the washer, they are not nice to look at and if not cleaned, a familiar musty smell will greet you every time you open the door. Several products have been designed especially to combat this particular problem with front load washers, and I must say I have seen them work. But the sure way to prevent this from occurring is to take away the things that promotes the mold growth in the first place.

Mold is a pretty simple creature to support, as it only really needs a little warm moisture to keep happy. The spores come along with the dirt of your clothes and with some suds from your detergent, they are ready to hang around. And for everything good that a front load washer gives us, it also provides a nice habitat for our mold colonies.

Now as I said before, there are products out there to help clean up the mess once it has started and I do sell them to customers, just to admit my dog in the fight, but from my experience, they work better to prevent problems than to clean up the problem. And what I mean by this is using something like Affresh™ Washer Cleaner on a monthly basis as directed does well to prevent mold and soap buildup, but don't expect it to clean away the mess from years of use.

Which brings me back to this service call. The sure fire way to get rid of the mold is to replace the door bellow and start anew which is what this customer wanted. Then with a fresh new door seal on the front of the washer, the customer was able to begin a periodic cleaning regiment to prevent the mold from coming back.

And for some free advice. I mentioned above that the best way to prevent mold was to take away that cozy environment that makes the mold want to hang around. The best way to do this I have found is to simple keep the door open when you are done with the wash. With the door open, the moisture inside the tub can evaporate away as the air moves around the wash basket. Then the next morning go ahead and close the door to keep the cat out. Just my two cents.


This blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Jacksonville. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (904)-421-8565 or email info@ApplianceRepairJacksonville.net. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Frequent Rreezer Problems You'll be Able to Resolve Yourself (and when you must get in touch with an expert)

Ice and frost build-up in the freezer – This usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. Test the three components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, or the defrost timer.

You may have damaged refrigerator or freezer door gaskets. When you open the freezer door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately.

Test the seal by placing a dollar bill half-way in the freezer door and then tug on it. If there is some resistance, then the seal is good. You can also test the seal by placing a high-powered flashlight in the freezer directed towards the door. Close the freezer door and turn off the lights in your kitchen. If you can see any light leakage, you may have a bad seal.

Water is inside at the bottom of the refrigerator – This is usually caused by blocked drainage tubes. Be sure to unplug your refrigerator before doing any work. The drain tubes can be found either on the inside of your refrigerator, at the top next to the temperature controls, behind the unit (disconnect the drain tube to clear it) or by accessing the main back panel of the freezer under the cooling coil. Diagrams showing the drainage tube locations for your refrigerator and freezer can be found online.

You can use a turkey baster to flush hot water into the drain tube to clear any obstruction. If it seems like the drain tube is frozen or plugged up with ice, use a hair dryer to defrost it.

Your refrigerator feels warm or is cycling on and off frequently – Clean the condenser coils located at the bottom of your refrigerator behind the kick plate/grill.

Leave it to the pros if you hear any of the following –

Your refrigerator is not cooling and you hear a hissing noise.
The condenser coils become damaged or there is a hole in one of the coils.

This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Jackson. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call 800-469-4663 or email info@ApplianceRepairJackson.net. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Am I Allowed To Manually Light My Gas Stove Manually?

Question: The ignitor on my General Electric gas stove burned out. Can I manually light my stove? The burners on the top of the stove work fine.


Answer: No, this is not possible due to the gas being controlled by the gas safety valve. You need the ignitor to be working properly before gas is allowed out of the gas safety valve.

The ignitor is a small round or rectangular (flat oven ignitor and the round oven ignitor) device located near the burner and is wired in series with the gas safety valve. When the ignitor is cold, it has a lot of resistance, meaning it gets most of the electricity in the circuit. As the ignitor heats up, its resistance drops allowing the heat to pass to the bi-metal strip in the gas safety valve, which then allows gas to be released to the burner assembly. The gas then gets ignited by the glow-bar ignitor. The ignitor glows the whole time the burner is on, keeping the gas safety valve open. The thermostat senses when the desired temperature is reached, and cuts off electricity to the gas safety valve and ignitor.


DavesRepair.com has an article on “Gas Oven Glowbar Igniters” along with photos and some helpful tips if you plan on making this repair yourself. He also offers some helpful suggestions on the two different types of igniters: the flat oven ignitor and the round oven ignitor and how to tell which shape your gas oven takes.


APWagner.com also offers a helpful article on How Gas Ovens Work which might help you troubleshoot any problems. Also you can buy any of these replacement gas oven parts online at APWagner.com.


Examples of a Flat Oven Ignitor and a Round Oven Ignitor for your gas oven:


General Electric Flat Oven Ignitor Part Number WB2X10016

This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Houston. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (281)-677-4910 or email info@ApplianceRepairHouston.info. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Old is the Machine? Also Known As Machine Day Requirements

Appliance manufacturers often use a date code as part the of the units serial number to signify when it was manufactured. We technicians use these date codes daily to assist in determining whether an appliance is still covered by a factory warranty in the absence of a purchase receipt. These codes and how to read them change from company to company, but I have put this list together covering how to break down the codes, and some examples of how to read them. This list will work for most newer appliances as long as you are reading from the correct format. Often times, appliances are made by one manufacturer for another so the format may not always look the same from appliance to appliance. I will update this list as I find changes, omissions, and corrections. If you need to know when an appliance was made, this list should help.



Amana
1st and 2nd Numeric Character = Year Manufactured
3rd and 4th Numeric Character = Week Manufactured
Example – 9605123456 was manufactured in the 5th Week (February) of 1996
*New products use Maytag or Whirlpool serial number format

Asko
1st - 4th Numeric Characters = Year Manufactured
5th and 6th Numeric Character = Week of Year Manufactured
Example – 20042800001 was manufactured in the 28th week (July) of 2004

Blomberg
1st and 2nd Numeric Character = Year Manufactured
9th and 10th Numeric Character = Month Manufactured
Example – 0750024208 was manufactured August 2007

Bosch
1st and 2nd Numeric Character + 20 = Year Manufactured
3rd and 4th Numeric Character = Month Manufactured
Example – FD821100067 was manufactured November of 82+20=102 or 2002
Example – FD730400030 was manufactured April of 73+20= 93 or 1993

Dacor
1st and 2nd Numeric Character = Year Manufactured
3rd and 4th Numeric Character = Month Manufactured
Example – DA06131246 was manufactured in the 13th week (March) of 2006

DCS
See Fisher&Paykel

Electrolux
1st Numeric Character = Last Digit of Year Manufactured
2nd and 3rd Numeric Characters = Week of Year Manufactured
Example – LA71503430 was manufactured in the 15th week (April) of 2007.

Estate
See Whirlpool

Eurotech
See Asko

Fisher&Paykel
1st Alpha Character = Year Manufactured
2nd Alpha Character = Month Manufactured
Example – RUM771495 was manufactured in November 2006.

F&P Year Codes
C=1 U=2 M=3 B=4 E=5 R=6 L=7 A=8 N=9 D=0
F&P Month Codes
F=1 I=2 S=3 H=4 E=5 R=6 P=7 A=8 Y=9 K=10 U=11 L=12

Frigidaire
See Electrolux

Gaggenau
See Bosch

General Electric
1st Alpha Character = Month Manufactured
2nd Alpha Character = Year Manufactured
Example - SF070596 was manufactured in September 2003.

GE Month Codes
A=Jan D=Feb F=Mar G=Apr H=May L=Jun M=Jul R=Aug S=Sep T=Oct V=Nov Z=Dec
GE Year Codes
F=1991/2003 G=1992/2004 H=1993/2005 L=1994/2006 M=1995/2007 R=1996/2008
S=1997/2009 T=1998/2010 V=1999/2011 Z=2000/2012 A=2001/2013 D=2002/2014

Gladiator
See Whirlpool

Hotpoint
See General Electric

ICON
See Electrolux

Ikea
See Whirlpool

Inglis
See Whirlpool

Jenn-Air
See Maytag

Kirkland
See Whirlpool

Kitchenaid
See Whirlpool

LG
1st Numeric Character = Last Digit of Year Manufactured
2nd and 3rd Numeric Characters = Month Manufactured
Example – 705KWSB01654 was manufactured May of 2007.

MagicChef
See Maytag

Maytag
1st Alpha Character = Year Manufactured
2nd Alpha Character = Month Manufactured
Example - 10270591EP was manufactured in August 2004.

Maytag Year Codes
B=1990 D=1991 F=1992 H=1993 K=1994 M=1995 Q=1996 S=1997 U=1998 W=1999 Y=2000 Z=2001
A=2002 C=2003 E=2004 G=2005 J=2006 L=2007 N=2008 P=2009 R=2010 T=2011 V=2012 X=2013
Maytag Month Codes
A/B=Jan C/D=Feb E/F=Mar G/H=Apr J/K=May L/M=Jun
N/Q=Jul P/S=Aug R/U=Sep T/W=Oct V/Y=Nov X/Z=Dec

Monogram
See General Electric

Roper
See Whirlpool

Sharp
Production month and year will be printed on the serial tag.

Thermador
See Bosch

U-line
1st and 2nd Numeric Characters = Year Manufactured
7th and 8th Numeric Characters = Month Manufactured
Example – 079469-01-1234 was manufactured January of 2007.

Viking
1st and 2nd Numeric Characters = Month Manufactured
3rd and 4th Numeric Characters = Day Manufactured
5th and 6th Numeric Characters = Year Manufactured
Example – 021508R00001234 was manufactured February 15th 2008.
*Some Viking refrigerators are manufactured by Amana and will reflect Amana date codes

WC Wood
1st Alpha Character = Month Manufactured
2nd Alpho Character = Year Manufactured
Example – 40205667Fp was manufactured in June of 2007.

WC Wood Month Codes
A=Jan B=Feb C=Mar D=Apr E=May F=June G=Jul H=Aug I=Sep J=Oct K=Nov L=Dec

WC Wood Year Codes
A=1992 B=1993 C=1994 D=1995 E=1996 F=1997 G=1998 H=1999 I=2000 J=2001 K=2002
L=2003 M=2004 N=2005 O=2006 P=2007 Q=2008 R=2009 S=2010 T=2011 U=2012 V=2013
W=2014 X=2015 Y=2016 Z=2017


Whirlpool
2nd or 3rd Alpha Character = Year Manufactured (Prior to 1990 1st Numeric = Last Digit of Year Manufactured)
1st and 2nd Numeric Character = Week Manufactured
Example – CSR2817974 was manufactured in the 28th week (July) of 2004.

Whirlpool Year Codes (after 1989)
X=1990 A=1991 B=1992 C=1993 D=1994 E=1995 F=1996 G=1997 H=1998 J=1999
K=2000 L=2001 M=2002 P=2003 R=2004 S=2005 T=2006 U=2007 W=2008 Y=2009


This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Fort Worth. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (817)-204-1076 or email info@ApplianceRepairFortWorth.net. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Kenmore Machine Draining Slowly

Model #417.44092500, the complaint on this washer was it would sometimes not seem to spin at full speed and when the clothes were removed, there would often be water still in the tub. Because a drain problem would be indicated for both of those problems, that is just where I started.


Front load washers operate essentially like any top load washer in that they fill, agitate, drain and spin in order to wash clothes. But because of the high spin speeds used in front load washers to extract excess water, the controls will ensure all standing water has been removed from the tub prior to beginning a high speed spin in order to prevent damage due to the weight of spinning saturated clothes. So if all the water cannot be drained from the tub, most front load washers will never be able to enter a high speed spin and extract all the excess water.

If there is standing water within the tub, that is an indication of the water not draining properly and if you see that, go directly to the drain pump and find out why. Because all the water was draining most of the time, that assured me the pump was still working, but most likely something was interfering with it's operation. Using my pliers, I removed the spring clamp holding the end of the sump hose onto the drain pump and pulled it free from the housing. Note that any water remaining in the sump will now be in the base of the unit and soon on the floor so have some towels handy. Once removed, I found a small nylon strap (the kind that hold tags to new clothes) had lodged itself behind the pump impeller slowing it down and reducing it's ability to pump water.

Front load washers have a unique ability to remove objects from the pockets of clothes, and pull them through openings you wouldn't expect they would fit. After that, there next stop will be the sump and drain assembly where hopefully they do little or no damage during the journey. Always check your pockets before washing.

The customer was lucky this time, but it was an expensive lesson to learn. With the strap removed and everything back together, this washer was again draining and spinning as well as before.


This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair El Paso. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call 800-469-4663 or email info@ApplianceRepairElPaso.net. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Kitchenaid Compactor Will Not Likely Start

Model #KUCC151LPA1, this compactor had been suffering from some intermittent starting problems during the past few weeks, and the customer thought they had the problem solved after adjusting the metal arm attached to the drawer foot peddle. The compactor seemed to start more consistently, but it still required the start button to be pressed multiple times before any movement would occur. Then finally, the compactor wouldn't start at all, no matter what was done, leaving this compactor to be nothing more than a fancy trash can.

Most domestic compactors come in two different varieties. Screw type and scissor type. Both have the same task of applying downward pressure into the drawer bin through the use of a motor. And each will use various switches to help keep the user safe by preventing the unit from operating when the drawer is opened. So no matter the type of compactor in use, their mechanical systems may vary is design, but their electrical components have much in common.

I only mention this because it is often times one of these interlock switches that will keep the units from working. Like most any appliance that has decided to take a powder, checking for voltage at the various components would be the correct way to approach this problem. And once it is determined which component the voltage stops at, then that is the likely point of failure.

As the customer had already noticed, this model of compactor uses a metal tab affixed to the drawer release lever to activate a cycle. By lifting up on the pedal, the tab will actuate the push button start switch. This is a very common failure, as I wrote about in my post Kitchenaid Trash Compactor not Starting and a simple bending of the tab will keep things operational. But when pushing the button by hand doesn't snap the compactor motor to life, then something a little more in depth must be causing the problem.

Like I said above, when it doesn't work, look for where the voltage stops. Using my multimeter, I simply followed the wiring from the wall outlet through each of the safety and control switches in this compactor. Testing each to ensure they were opening and closing the circuit as expected. In doing so, I found them all to be satisfactory with the exception of one. The start switch mounted to the front of the chassis, the one that starts the cycle, would not pass voltage in either position. A resistance check found an open circuit when actuated, and released.

With the front panel removed so I could properly test the switch, I installed a new start switch in place of the failed one. With wires reconnected and power to the unit again, I pressed the switch button and witnessed the compactor ram start is downward journey. I also made some adjustments to the actuator tab on the drawer peddle to keep this compactor starting properly.


This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Denver. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (720)-214-2712 or email info@ApplianceRepairDenver.info. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Whirlpool Dryer dryer will not keep Runnning

Model #LE5800XSW3, this electric dryer would start for the customer when the button was pressed but it would stop as soon as the button was released. She did notice if the button was held down, the dryer would continue to run, but again would stop as soon as the button was let go. With the aid a heavy book, she was able to finis the laundry, but this didn't seem like a long term solution to the problem. Wanting to prevent any further damage, she gave me a call to come out and have a look.



Various electrical components are used to get the dryers motor started and then to keep it running during a cycle. Those with electronic controls will often just close a set of electrical contacts on a control board when the start button is pressed, while others using mechanical timers will have push-to-start buttons to get things going. Whichever method is used, the purpose is to provide a current path for electricity to flow to the motor. When the switch fails, the symptom will generally be a motor that will not start, or like the dryer I was visiting, will only run as long as the button was being continuously pressed.

With power obviously to the dryer and it's electrical components (it would start after all) I figured the push-to-start switch was the obvious place to begin my search for a failure. Now normally I would explain how to go about some basic testing of these components, but I have already written a post Understanding Push-to-Start Switches which I think does a good job of this. By following the information in the post, I was able to determine the coil in the switch was reading as an open circuit which means it was no longer keeping the switch contacts closed once the button as released. To get this dryer working again, a new switch is in order.

With a new start switch in hand, I removed the mounting screws and while paying attention to where each wire attached, I installed the new switch and reconnected each wire to it's appropriate terminal. With the dryer plugged back into the outlet, pressing the start button caused the motor to start, and once the button was released, it just kept going. Now the customer can get back to doing laundry without using a book from the reference section.

This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Dallas. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call (214)-446-1660 or email info@ApplianceRepairDallas.info. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.

Thermal Fuse

Thermal fuse. If the dryer overheats, this device stops the flow of electricity to the heat source and/or the entire dryer. It is located on the blower housing and cannot be reset. The most common cause for overheating is a vent tube clogged with lint, a birds nest or other debris.



This Blog is brought to you by Appliance Repair Colorado Springs. Attempting to repair appliances without proper training and safety standards is dangerous. Appliances should only be repaired by skilled professionals who have the knowledge and experience to safely bring them out of disrepair. Repairs performed by unqualified people risk serious injury or even death. A relatively small outlet can easily carry the current needed to kill a person. Please call(719)-266-2690 or email info@ApplianceRepairColoradoSprings.net. Our technicians are stading by and ready to relieve you from your appliance problems.